A labour of love, that’s what this coat is about. Made in only two weeks it already is not in my house any more but gone home with my daughter. The difficulty rating is 3 stars (on a scale of 4) and I think it would deserve a 4 star rating. This is not an easy coat to make because of all the layers and a collar and sleeves that have to be set into those layers. I’m not very easily nervous about a sewing step but I certainly was when I was inserting this collar. There was a loud sigh of relief (and a relieved whatsapp message to a sewing friend!) when it was done and the corners were fine.
This is the Burda description of the coat: Reminiscent of a slick trench coat, the model with long storm flaps and diagonal, precision-tailored pockets with piping. The single-breasted coat is closed with poppers to underscore the pure, straight look.
My daughter loved the coat when she browsed the February Burda magazine a while ago and I promised to make it. When we recently went fabric shopping for the first time in a long while (non-essential shops opened on appointment a few weeks ago) we found this fabric, which was both suitable for the pattern and exactly the colour she wanted. And of course this coat couldn’t wait till next year ;). I felt that I had to make it quick, so that she could still wear it before summer.
Below a few photos from the process, which was a lot about trying to reduce bulk. The photos of my daughter wearing it were made when she tried it on for fit a week ago. No photos of her wearing the finished item, we simply forgot and when she left she had to run to catch her train!
The front of the coat was interfaced with fusible interfacing. To eliminate bulk there I cut the interfacing at the stitch line and cut out the dart portion. The back was partially interfaced.
Part of the storm flap, which is lined. I made sure the lining was more to the inside by “favouring the seam” of the flap to the wrong side.
The welt pockets in progress. I wanted to make a tutorial and shot a lot of photos. But when I checked I saw I forgot a photo of an important step. Some other time…
Step 1 of the sleeve: gathering.
This is what you look for when inserting a sleeve where extra ease has to be distributed: there will be extra fabric which is curling at the sides, but where you stitch the seam, it’s straight.
Finished! we are both happy with the coat. Time for me to do a little easier project .
Not the first time I ended with a photo of the beach. I love the special light.