Sew an invisible zipper

This is a simple technique for inserting an invisible zipper which has no little pucker at the end. I insert my zipper this way all the time. Though the trick is at the last step of inserting the zipper, I include all steps I do for inserting a zipper.

Blinde rits geopend

What do you need?

  • Invisible zipper, length dependent on the garment you’re making.
  • Non stretch fusible interfacing, strip of about 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) wide, a little longer than the zipper.
  • Zipper foot on your machine.
Zipper closed
Interfacing applied

Step 1

Preparation

  • Finish the edges
  • Do NOT sew the seam under the zipper
  • Apply a strip of non-stretch interfacing where you insert the zipper, especially along the length of the zipper
Check how zipper will be attached

Step 2

Visualise

If you haven’t done a lot of invisible zippers, it’s a good idea to visualise how the zipper will be placed when the garment is finished. 

 

First zipper tape pinned

Step 3

  • Open the zipper
  • Fold it over with the zipper teeth away from the cut edge of the fabric. .
  • Pin the tape to the fabric
  • Baste if you want to match stripes/plaids or have slippery fabric

TIP!

To easy sew a facing or the seamline above the zipper, you can start sewing the zipper at the point where the zipper starts, not at the top of the zipper tape!

 

Sewing zipper tape

Step 4

  • Stitch with a special foot for invisible zippers. I love my Bernina foot for this, but use the foot suitable for your machine.
  • Stitch as far as you can, till the slider is in the way.
  • Make a few back stitches to finish.

Step 5

Repeat step 4 for the other side of the zipper

 

The end of the zipper, with the seam below it still unsewn.

 

Step 6

The trick not to get a pucker at the end is not matching the stitching lines. Leave 1 or 2 mm in between the stitch of the seam line and the stitch line of the zipper. Stitching with your default zipper foot is helpful here.

 

Disclaimer: as always, there are more ways to do it, this is just my take on it.

Zipper closed