Sew an invisible zipper
This is a simple technique for inserting an invisible zipper which has no little pucker at the end. I insert my zipper this way all the time. Though the trick is at the last step of inserting the zipper, I include all steps I do for inserting a zipper.
What do you need?
- Invisible zipper, length dependent on the garment you’re making.
- Non stretch fusible interfacing, strip of about 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) wide, a little longer than the zipper.
- Zipper foot on your machine.
- Finish the edges
- Do NOT sew the seam under the zipper
- Apply a strip of non-stretch interfacing where you insert the zipper, especially along the length of the zipper
If you haven’t done a lot of invisible zippers, it’s a good idea to visualise how the zipper will be placed when the garment is finished.
- Open the zipper
- Fold it over with the zipper teeth away from the cut edge of the fabric. .
- Pin the tape to the fabric
- Baste if you want to match stripes/plaids or have slippery fabric
To easy sew a facing or the seamline above the zipper, you can start sewing the zipper at the point where the zipper starts, not at the top of the zipper tape!
- Stitch with a special foot for invisible zippers. I love my Bernina foot for this, but use the foot suitable for your machine.
- Stitch as far as you can, till the slider is in the way.
- Make a few back stitches to finish.
Repeat step 4 for the other side of the zipper
The end of the zipper, with the seam below it still unsewn.
The trick not to get a pucker at the end is not matching the stitching lines. Leave 1 or 2 mm in between the stitch of the seam line and the stitch line of the zipper. Stitching with your default zipper foot is helpful here.
Disclaimer: as always, there are more ways to do it, this is just my take on it.