Garment a month – January (3)

by | Jan 8, 2021 | blog, burda pattern, garment a month, jacket | 9 comments

The next steps in the jacket were making the welt pockets and the shoulder shield. The shoulder shield (or shoulder placket) is used to stabilise the area between shoulder and bust, where fabric is inclined to make a dip. It consists of a hair canvas part that is kept in place by a layer of fusible interfacing.

Welt pockets are not the easiest to sew. Whenever I make them, I will always make them on a scrap of fabric first, to see how it works with the fabric I’m at that moment working with.

There are several methods for making double welt pockets and I very much prefer the method as described by Kenneth D. King in his book Cool Couture. It’s an original method that I will not describe in detail. It starts with a piece of ribbon used as interfacing/stabilizer and works a charm each time I use it.

In the back of a jacket you will often see a shoulder dart. In Burda patterns this dart is frequently changed to a bit of extra fabric that you must ease into the front shoulder seam. The shoulder seam of the back is longer! Here you see the difference. Not a lot, but in pattern drafting courses I learned it makes for just a bit of extra moving ease.

Here you can see the extra fabric that must be eased into the front. Also you can see that I marked the exact seam lines. I don’t often work with default seam allowances.

Marking pattern pieces and adding different ways of adding or marking seam allowances might be a good post subject for another date.

All pinned and ready to sew.

The way the jacket looked when I stopped sewing for today. 

Beautiful weather today to go for a walk. Such wonderful skies and exceptional light.



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  1. Sharon

    Your jacket is coming along very nicely. I remember doing the Welt Pocket instructions with Kenneth D King, but now to remember what platform I did it from and to find my notes.

    • Sigrid

      Might it be on Patternreview?
      I don’t think it was in one of his Craftsy classes.

    • Treefrog

      Sharon, it was in his Craftsy class on designing pockets. It’s such a great technique. I’ve use it on dense polar fleece at had perfect results

  2. elke

    I’ve been admiring this pattern, too, but was surprised to see they described it as a (mock) welt pocket. Are you putting in a real pocket, or just the welt?

    • Sigrid

      I planned to mention that in a next post. I only noticed they were intended as mock welt pockets after I made real pockets😊.
      Which I don’t get, why do all the trouble of making welts (not the easiest of sewing techniques) and then not make a proper pocket of it. Once you have the welts installed, the pocket part is easy!

  3. Gayle in Canada

    Sharon, if you are a Threads Insider, the technique is described there in a series called “Tailoring with Felted Wool, Part 2: How to Sew a Decorative Welt Pocket”. It may also be in a print edition of Threads but I’ve not checked that.

    Sigrid, once again you are inspiring us with your tailoring!

    • Sigrid

      Thank you for the compliment Gayle. And thank you too for mentioning other sources where mr. King has published instructions.

  4. Treefrog

    I always love watching your jacket construction. They are always so beautifully made.

  5. Laura Cahill

    Love your progress. The jacket is really coming on and looks great. I totally agree about putting in the pockets after doing the welt. That’s the hard part. Looking forward to your next update.


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