Welt pockets are not the easiest to sew. Whenever I make them, I will always make them on a scrap of fabric first, to see how it works with the fabric I’m at that moment working with.
There are several methods for making double welt pockets and I very much prefer the method as described by Kenneth D. King in his book Cool Couture. It’s an original method that I will not describe in detail. It starts with a piece of ribbon used as interfacing/stabilizer and works a charm each time I use it.
In the back of a jacket you will often see a shoulder dart. In Burda patterns this dart is frequently changed to a bit of extra fabric that you must ease into the front shoulder seam. The shoulder seam of the back is longer! Here you see the difference. Not a lot, but in pattern drafting courses I learned it makes for just a bit of extra moving ease.
Here you can see the extra fabric that must be eased into the front. Also you can see that I marked the exact seam lines. I don’t often work with default seam allowances.
Marking pattern pieces and adding different ways of adding or marking seam allowances might be a good post subject for another date.
All pinned and ready to sew.
The way the jacket looked when I stopped sewing for today.
Beautiful weather today to go for a walk. Such wonderful skies and exceptional light.